Building Project: Custom carved frames

My lovely and talented wife gave me some cards and stickers by illustrator Tommy Siegel from his “Extremely Realistic Fine Art Bird Prints” collection. Tommy created the collection in response to bird purists telling him that his cartoons of birds weren’t “anatomically correct” so he added human butts to the birds and then published them under this title. I appreciate the “fuck yourself” attitude and the satire and my wife knows me and my sense of humor. I wanted to display them in a way that would continue the satire so I envisioned putting them in hand carved rustic woodland themed frames with a nice matte. I am hoping that someday an ornithological expert will visit my office be drawn to the pictures to identify the birds and that I get to watch/experience the reaction.

I’ve gotten pretty good at making custom frames so I quickly made some frames out of maple that was left over from another project that was 1 1/4” by 3/4” . Using the frame clamping jig that I got from Woodcraft it wasn’t any big deal to whip them up. I have found that just marking the miters on the wood and directly lining up each cut works better on the power miter box than trying to use a stop. The angled ends of the miters make the stop less accurate than for straight cuts.

I wanted to try carving a “ye olde rustic forest” kind of pattern around the frame and I wanted to use my Dremel to do it. After googling this I found some howto videos on YouTube that were very useful. I found a public domain frame pattern of oak leaves, acorns, and bark pattern online as an SVG file and I was able to resize it to the size frame that I wanted to do. I got some carbon paper and styluses for rubbing and impression using it. After printing the pattern out at full size, I spray mounted the carbon paper ( carbon side out ) to the back of the pattern. Then I lined up the pattern on the frame and taped it on carbon side down to the frame.

Using the rubbing styluses I traced over all of the black areas of pattern transferring it to the maple frame. I had to pace myself doing this because I had a tendency to hold the stylus too tight and probably to be pressing too hard, hurting my hand. But, taking multiple breaks I got it done. I got a flexible extension drive attachment for my Dremel which has a light comfortable pen-like grip at the end and a collet to drive a 1/8” Dremel tool. This is great because controlling the Dremel while you hold the whole weight of it in your hand is very difficult for any long period of time. I hung the Dremel from my work light arm to keep the shaft from kinking. I used the smaller of my Dremel ball head cutters to carve a round profile groove where ever there was black on the pattern. Like the pattern transfer process I took multiple breaks to both keep my hands from cramping and also to keep the flexible drive cool.

You can check out pictures of the process below:

I wasn’t sure of the finish, I wanted something quite dark that looked “olde timey” and I wanted the carved parts to be even darker. I decided to try out the first frame to completion before I went on to the second one. I sanded it from 120 to 320 grit, after adding a 3/8” round over with an edge detail with the router and rounding the inside edge as well. I decided to try the Medium Walnut Danish Oil and unfortunately it didn’t do either thing that I wanted from it. The general color was too light and the carving didn’t seem to get any more pigment than the surrounding.

So, I let that finish dry and then using my sanding station I sanded it and the carving completely off the piece and then I tried a dark walnut stain that I had a small can of from a very early project. This gave me the color I wanted and I was convinced that it would also darken the carving. I sprayed a couple of coats of clear acrylic lacquer on it and that gave me the fancy frame sheen I was looking for. Now I had a plain extra frame to use for another picture.

I made another frame quickly and proceeded with transferring the pattern and carving it on both frames, adding the edge details, and sanding them. Then I stained both frames and sprayed them with acrylic lacquer. You can see the progress below:

Some nice rich colored mattes and backing with foam core and faced with 1/16” clear acrylic and they were done. I’ve hung them in my office and they make me smile every time I see them.

Building Project: TV Lift Case More Progress

Another twelve days on the project and I’m done with major fabrication. After the last update I built the false back that divides the front of the case where things will be displayed from the back where the TV and the TV lift mechanism will live. I essentially built a floating frame for the removable plywood panel that forms the false back of the case. I cut a 1” by 3/8” rabbet around the inside of the frame and cut really nice miter joints for the corner. I glued it up and then for strength ( since it is a large frame ) I added a counter sunk screw at each corner. I had some nice hook and loop fastener and I cut eight squares and secured the plywood panel in the recess with them. It looks great like a very fancy cabinet back and yet it is removable in case I ever need to get at the lift or TV.

I made some small panels that will get glued to the inside of the cabinet on the sides to hide the back of the side panels making the interior look completely finished. The plywood I’m using is a bit under 1/4” so there’s even a bit of reveal next to the frame members which helps the illusion. I cut them a bit long so they slide behind the divider making a very nice look.

Next I made the electronics shelf for the cable box, dvd player, Roku etc… to sit on. The trick here was to make it removable so that the panel could be removed behind it. I remembered that I had some shelf pins left over from another project and they were just the thing. I cut the shelf out of 3/4” walnut plywood and set the pins to have it be flush with the top of the middle rail of the cabinet. It’s pretty easy to get in and out of the cabinet.

After this I built the top of the cabinet. I rough cut the 5 1/2” walnut boards to one inch over the final dimensions of the top. After some sorting and arranging to get the best general alignment of the boards I glued them up. I used my new Rockler Panel Clamps and one additional home made clamp made from some center tapered 2x4’s cut to the width of the panel and covered in masking tape. The Rockler clamps worked extremely well. The resulting panel was super flat with no twist in it over all and only some local issues at the seams. I didn’t clean up the glue thinking I could just snap it off with a panel scraper later… won’t do that again. It took scraping, planing, and sanding to get rid of it. I used my new jack plane for the rough smoothing then 80 grit sanding. All in all it looks flatter and better than my last panel glue up.

I cut the panel to final dimension on my table saw for the sides and with my circular saw with an edge guide for the end cuts. I used a coping saw to round the front corners of the top. I then routed the edge detail on with my small router and a 3/8” round over bit with a bearing. The top edge has a 1/8” shoulder before the round-over just like the other furniture in the living room. At this point I needed to do a full test installation of the TV Lift, swingarm, and TV in the case so I could figure out the brackets I’d need to make or modify and to plan where to cut the top into two pieces so one of them could rise up with the TV.

I created a couple of brackets to attach the lift to the bottom of the cabinet and I modified the top lift bracket to fit my setup. All I can say is my cheap RIKON 10” band saw keeps impressing me, I was able to saw through 1/8” steel to trim the bent sides of the top bracket off. It wasn’t comfortable, but with a little cutting oil and some smoky moments it worked. I got the lift mounted and attached to the top. I did all of this with the top in one piece because I realized I would get more precise positioning this way. I then cut the top that I’d just laboriously glued up into two pieces. It came out great and it turned out that my modified connecting plate could just stay on providing a perfect alignment guide for re-installation on the lift.

I installed the swing arm and the TV, I had to adjust the height of the TV’s adapter bracket but it just fit… I may actually have to rout out relief in the bottom of the lid so I can raise the TV another 3/8” of an inch because it is just clearing the top of the case when the swing arm is extended. We’ll see.

After confirming all of that would work and that the lift can handle it going up and down I drilled the wire port in the back with my 2” hole saw. I drilled another wire port in the false back on the right side of the electronics shelf. I got some 2” black grommets to dress up the wire ports and help control the wires.

Next it was on to build the doors. I cut all the frame members out of 2” x 3/4” stock and ripped some 1” x 3/4” stock for the mullions. I laid out all the mortises that I would need and cut all of the tenons that I required using my new mortising jig. I drilled out the rough mortises as before and cleaned them up with a chisel. I have 1/8” acrylic for the “glass” in the doors so I put in a 1/8” x 1/4” groove along the inside of the frames and mullions to receive it.

The doors came together quickly and my only mistake was cutting one of the acrylic panels 1/16” too small, I’ll have to remake it before final assembly.

I mocked up the doors and they fit perfectly and I also verified that the hinges will work, fit and look good.

The next step is going to be a lot of sanding and then finishing and then glue up. Some parts like the doors I am probably going to finish them before gluing them up to keep the finish off the acrylic.

I’ll post another update soon.

Building Project: TV Lift Case Progress

So I’m about twelve days into the build and things are going well. I started out cutting all the stock for the frame of the TV Lift Case and the Side Table to length. Then I used my new tenoning jig for the table saw to cut all of the tenons. Fortunately all of the tenons were identical and on the same thickness stock so it went very quickly. I really like the jig, once it is dialed in on a scrap piece of stock it is very consistent and repeatable.

Then I had to also process the skirt boards for the cases which have an arch detail on the bottom. I ended up having to run to Lowes to get a 48” metal ruler so I could use it to scribe the arch. I clamped two pencils at either end of the skirt board and then with the ruler pressed upward against them I pulled it’s center to the peak of the curve and then scribed a line along it. I did this on pairs of skirt boards of the same size that I had taped together. I cut the curve following the line just a bit on the outside with the band saw and then cleaned up curve with the sanding station and a sanding tube on the drill press. I also ripped about 1/2” off of the width of the skirt boards and adjusted the tenon to keep the 1/4” shoulder at the top because the stock I got was 3 1/2” and I needed 3” to have the inside of the case match the height of the TV Lift mechanism.

At this point I moved on to cutting all of the mortises. I used my new x-y vise on the drill press for this and it really helped both the speed and accuracy of removing the bulk of the material in the mortises using a 1/4” Forstner bit. There’s a little bit of slop in the ways on this Harbor Freight vise so I had to tweak the position and use a square reference to verify it vs. the layout but once it was set it stayed very true through each cut and there was a lot less clamping and re-clamping and less error in general. Also the tweaking was easy since the fine adjustments in x-y were trivial. I also invested some time in re-sharpening my 1/4” chisel and as anyone who has put off sharpening their chisel will say “What a difference!”

Then there was a lot of cleaning up mortises and tenons and dry-fitting them and dry-fitting them again. The front of the case has a flush face and the rest of the case is recessed so I had to be really careful with the layout. The skirt board distance to the top of the case was also critical because the lift needs to be mounted against the top of the case and so we need enough room for it.

Next, I wanted to confirm that the TV Lift was going to fit so I cut the bottom panel and got it fitted. I used some spacer blocks to hold it up flush with the top of the skirt boards. I test mounted the lift in the case and it fits just fine. I realized that I hadn’t ordered the right bracket for the top of the lift so I ordered that and it’s on it’s way. Also I’m going to have to make a lower bracket because I want to mount it to the floor of the case, not to the back as it was designed. This is why you test fit everything before you go too far.

After this I took a brief break to see if my idea to mount the TV on a swing arm on the lift was going to work. So I built a bench test rig in the shop so I could run the lift with everything attached. This went quite well, I was able to remove some of the original TV mounting hardware on the lift and bolt on the swing arm without having to drill any holes or modify any of the parts. Then the TV mounted up nicely to the swing arm and the lift seems to manage both of them easily. It is well within the 120 lb limit of the lift mechanism.

After confirming that was all good it was on to doing the side panels of case. I carefully marked where all the panel grooves would be on all of the frame parts. It really does make you nervous performing possibly destructive operations on parts that you’ve invested a lot of time into where you have limited replacement stock as well. Fortunately my new set of precision setup blocks made setting the blade height and distance on the table saw much easier and more accurate. I’ve also adopted the process of always performing cuts on a scrap first and confirming all of the dimensions before proceeding to final cuts. All the grooves went very well. I had to do some of the panel cuts with my hand held circular saw because the panel dimension was too big for my table saw. I developed a good method of clamping the panel to a table or two tables and using a nice straight piece of maple as a saw guide. Next time I order panels I’m going to have the supplier at least cut them in half, I had to have my lovely and talented brother come over and help me with the 3/4” thick panels which were just too unwieldy for me to even move around without bashing everything in the vicinity.

I also installed the cleats made from the off cuts of the skirt boards to hold up the floor of the case. I’m going to hold the floor in place with screws and clips on the bottom.

So, you’ll notice that the interior sides of the cabinet are the “bad side” of the one sided 1/4” walnut plywood. And since this is going to have glass doors, you’ll see them. I know, and I have a plan. The next step, now that I’ve confirmed the size of the whole TV assembly is to build the removable divider between the front and back of the cabinet. Once that is fitted where it’s going to go, I’ll cut inset panels for the interior of the cabinet sides which will get glued onto the back of outside panels and then finished. This will make the inside front that you’ll see look perfect.

That’s all for now, I’ll keep y’all posted with new updates as I go.

Building Project: TV Lift Case and Side Table

I’ve been wanting a larger TV for a while, we have a relatively small TV because it fits inside the old TV cabinet that we’ve had for quite a while. My beautiful and talented wife likes to be able to hide the TV when we’re not using it, so that is one constraint. Also, our house is relatively small and there is really only one spot in the living room where we can put the television. That space is limited in size. So, I came up with the idea of building a cabinet that was a nice display cabinet for some of our items we’ve collected in our travels while the rear part of the cabinet would hide a TV lift that would raise a 43 inch TV out of the back of the case and then it would swing forward on an armature to make viewing angle and distance very adjustable.

We also needed another side table in the living room with some storage, so I’m going to make that at the same time out of matching materials. Here’s the design I came up with:

Most of the furniture that is currently in the living room is a dark walnut finish so I’m going to make this furniture out of walnut as well. This is my first time using walnut and I’m excited to see how it comes out. The finish is probably going to be some combination of Danish Oil and Polyurethane… I think I’m going to have to experiment to see what color of Walnut Danish Oil I’m going to use. And I’m going to try the wipe on Polyurethane from WATCO to see if I can improve on my last effort.

The stock is in, sourced again from Boulter Plywood right in Medford, MA and it is lovely stuff…

There are some new tools on this build as well, I got some heavy duty panel clamps from Rockler which will help make the glue up for the tops of these cabinets flat and tight by clamping in four directions at once… ( I hope… )

Also, I got a table saw tenoning jig because apparently I’m going to be a mortise and tenon kind of person. I built one myself, but I didn’t provide for any fine adjustment in my design and it was just a little out of true and I realized I couldn’t afford tapered tenons… so I bought a machined cast iron one also from Rockler

And finally I got a two axis vice for my drill press. It is like a miniature milling table which has a vice at the top and then sliding ways that allow whatever is in the vice to be moved in x or y very precisely and without having to unclamp it. I usually do my mortises by using a forstner bit to remove most of the material on the drill press, drilling multiple holes in a row. This will hopefully speed up the process because I was previously clamping and unclamping the piece every time and also make it more precise by avoiding the errors that might crop up in that repeated process. I picked this up at Harbor Freight.

I’ve got the frame parts for both pieces cut to length and I’m about to start cutting all of the tenons… I’ll keep y’all posted on how things go…

A couple of small projects...

My beautiful and talented wife replaced one of her looms with a new one and she needed a stand and a tool trap for it. We’ve learned that the design of the one that was offered for it didn’t really hold the loom in position very well so instead of buying one I copied, resized, and adapted a stand that worked well on her larger loom. In addition I had some 1/4” steel rod which fit the holes on the front of the loom perfectly and I made the rails for a tool trap which she covered with some rip-stop nylon from an old garment bag. A tool trap is just a little hammock along the front of the loom to hold various weaving tools while you’re working.

I had a bunch of nice maple off cuts from the Sewing Table project so I was able to make it out of those. Couple of interesting things in the construction were cutting the slot in the top of the uprights and for the sliding adjustable front supports using my router table and doing through tenons both for the uprights and then through those tenons for the stretcher. I glued it up but I probably could have just wedged it given the way the tenons intersect. I sanded it to 320 grit and put a paste wax finish on it which is very smooth and silky.

I found some nice metric bolts in various sizes with knobs on them for the adjustable positioning elements and also to make the loom removable for storage or use on a tabletop.

The other project was also for my beautiful and talented wife and it was a frame for a cross stitch piece that she finished recently. I made the frame out of black mesquite with a natural danish oil finish. I’m getting better at frames, my miters were better on this one and the glue up and fastening was nicer. I used the frame clamping jig that I acquired after the last effort and that helped a lot. I just did a simple bevel detail on the inside of the frame which looks good.

I used an acid free double stick tape to mount the cross stitch to some foam core and then I put an art board spacer between it and the mat as was recommended in various guides I found online. I used acrylic for the “glass”. We blocked the cross stitch to get it reasonably flat and square